Bonito, BRAZIL - 22 october 2002
My whole body was aching from the gallops yesterday and I had some flesh wounds on my legs from rubbing against the saddle. I decided not to go to the river snorkel today in order not to aggravate my wounds since I always healed badly. I spent a tranquil day today, visiting caves.
The first cave was Gruta Lago Azul and it was really interesting. As we walked further and further into the cave, the water in the cave became more and more blue. It looked eerie and impossible. We could see huge rocks and fallen logs at the bottom of the lake. At first, we figured they were perhaps at a depth of 3 or 4 metres.
But when the guide explained that the huge rock that we were looking at was 25 metres below and the fallen log was 12 metres, our minds were simply blown away. 25 metres! I tried to imagine a regular swimming pool - that is, say, 4 metres. So, this rock was located 6 times deeper!! I could not imagine that EVER, as we could we could see it so clearly. It was incredible.
Last evening, we had arrived at the hostel in Bonito really late in the night. Yet, the receptionist wanted us to book the tours we were interested in right away in order for her to make transport arrangements.
I was with Daniel from the Pantanal trip and two Israelis, Patricia and Shuki. The three of them had signed up for the Rio Prata trip today but I decided to postpone it til later. And for tomorrow, Daniel, Shuki and I signed up for the abseiling trip.
Patricia refused to do it, claiming it was too dangerous for her. She was afraid. “But you did the ARMY! It should be OK for you!!” I tried to encourage her. She simply refused.
Shuki shook his head, saying that Patricia was a disgrace to the Israeli army.
Tonight, Daniel, Shuki and I had to go to the abseiling company to learn and practise how to go up and down on the rope. When we were done, Shuki decided to pull out of the trip. He now claimed he was afraid of heights. We were practising at perhaps ten metres just now and he had problems already. So, 72 metres would be too much for him. Poor dear.
Daniel and I looked at each other, “So. The Israeli army pulled out, huh? It is left to us mere peasants now…”
Bonito, BRAZIL - 23 october 2002
And Bonito just got better thereafter…
Daniel and I were tethered together and went down slowly. Along the 72 metres to the bottom of the cave, we were surrounded by wonderful stalactites. At the bottom was a subterranean lake. There was a huge hole which let in natural light so all was not totally dark.
We finally reached the bottom. It was eerily silent and we basked in the dim light, enjoying the splendid sights around us. We got on a boat and the (if I may add, very cute) guide Nilton paddled around explaining in Portuguese and pidgin English about the structures.
I had always been enchanted by cave structures. One thing unique here was that because the lake contained calcium, it actually formed structures IN the lake, that grew from the bottom of the lake, 1 mm a year. This kind of structure was different from the usual stalagmites that one saw at the bottom of other caves formed from the dripping of water from the top stalactites.
I could not really see the bottom structures properly until we donned the snorkel gear and our wetsuits and plunged in. Then, the most amazing sight unfolded below us.
The lake was ssssoooo deep we could not see the bottom. It just turned black after a while. The structures appeared to spring out from nowhere. They were cone-shaped, sometimes standing alone, sometimes in pairs or more, some small, some had reached the top of the lake and could only grow sideways now.
As we were floating at the top of the lake, it felt as if we were floating through space. All was quiet around us. We really could not see the bottom. If a person was afraid of heights and managed to overcome his fear and did the abseil, I seriously suspected he would have another panic attack here floating on top of this bottomless lake.
As I moved around, I saw more and more such curious cones emerging from the blackness down below and standing stubbornly in silence. It really felt like being in outer-space. I had never, never, never, ever seen such wonders and felt so surreal and eerie and yet strangely exhilarated about them. It was like being in a different world. Words did no justice. It was too amazing!
Bonito, BRAZIL - 24 october 2002
The next day, I joined the river-snorkelling trip at Rio Prata. Yes, a river! Usually, one goes snorkeling in the sea, so this was especially different.
The river was so crystal clear, one could see up to 50 metres away. It was not too deep and there was a current which carried you along.
As I was small, I floated faster and kept crashing into the people in front. I had to back-paddle, swim in circles or grab onto tree trunks in order to let them go further ahead first. The fish were just right next to us, some up to 1 metre or so big. It was superbly crystal clear, again I felt like I was floating in the sky and seeing all these wonderful fish around me.
At times where the currents got really strong, I put my arms straight by my side and torpedoed down the river, twisting here and there to avoid the fallen tree trunks and uneven ground. Precioso!! We even saw shoals of maybe 80 huge black fish and chased them a little.
Underground springs emerged from the bottom of the sand and we could see huge circles of bubbling sand as the spring burst into the river. Nature is gorgeous!! I had never felt so uplifted in my life!
Bonito to Foz do Iguaçu, BRAZIL - 25 october 2002
Spent the entire day on buses to Campo Grande and then, onwards to Foz do Iguaçu.
Foz do Iguaçu, BRAZIL - 26 october 2002
I realised I might have too much Brazilian reais with me. I decided to go for a last-minute shopping spree at Foz, my last Brazilian town.
Not the best time for it, as it was Saturday and many shops were closed. Here at the border, some sales assistant started to speak to me in Spanish already. For sure, I knew Spanish a little better than Portuguese but I was really confused, wondering if that was a Spanish word or yet another Portuguese word I did not know.
I was offered a menu at a café. As I pored over it, the lady came again and asked if I preferred the Spanish menu instead. “Oh, obrigada… melhor. [Oh, thank you… better.]” I replied, almost too confidently. But when I stared at the Spanish menu, I realised I had gotten so used to my juice vocabulary in Portuguese that now I had to re-recall my Spanish with difficulty: Zanahoria??? Er… Oh, that’s cenoura, carrots!! Err… Durazno? What’s that? I forgot… Ah, pêssego! Yes, peach peach…
How do people who speak multiple languages handle so many vocabulary in their heads?
Foz do Iguaçu, BRAZIL - 27 october 2002
Today was my six month anniversary of my trip. I landed in China (without my backpack, remember? Gosh, how long ago it felt!) on 27 April. Today was 27 October. I could not have given myself a better present!
As I was heading to the Iguaçu Falls, I wondered if I should have gone with a friend I made at the hostel. But when I arrived at the falls, I was glad I went alone for I could enjoy my solitude and be in touch with my thoughts so much more.
As I turned the corner and caught the first sight of the falls, I was floored. I had mentally prepared myself for this and yet, I was floored. The immensely captivating sight of the falls (and the best was yet to come!) left me in awe, with my mouth hanging open. I refused to move. People came, did a snappy and moved on. I grew roots there and savoured.
So many thoughts went through my head then. I would share some, even if it leaves the readers thinking what a sentimental load of crap I am. I felt glorious to be alive to witness this sight. I wondered how I deserved to be here, to stand before this priceless treasure, this unmeasurable wonder. I am nothing! I can be gone tomorrow just like that, but this waterfall will flow forever and ever, like it has always been!
About three or four years ago, I had gone to the Omnitheatre in Singapore and watched a 3D show about the wonders of the world or something. One of the wonders featured was the Iguaçu Falls. At that time, when I learnt it was in Brazil / Argentina, I had thought to myself, “Oh, that is impossible!! I can never get the chance to go to Brazil or Argentina!! They’re too far, so exotic, so difficult to get there. I will not know how to travel there! Gosh, the Iguaçu falls is magnificent but I may never see it in person!!”
Never say never. This thought flashed in my head when I was there and I had to say this, “Hey!! I’m here. I’m right in front of the falls! I had realised something I had thought impossible!” It was almost the same feelings I had when I was bulleting on the Trans-Mongolian train through Siberia. I had thought that impossible too.
While I felt undeserving of the honour to be at the falls, yet, I felt I deserved it too because I made the effort to come here and my reward was THIS… plus the chance to experience these overwhelming feelings. Now, I appreciate that I can choose how I want to lead my life and that I can change the things that I can to do what I want.
I realise I am gushing now. Usually, I am not like this. I am a lot more sensible. Bear with me. The readers must think I am some sentimental slob by now, but really you had to be here yourself.
And that was just at the start of the trek.
By the time I got to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat) - the most incredible part of the falls which was shaped like a horse-shoe, my head popped into a total blank. I over-saturated myself with feelings. I ran out of thoughts. I walked all the way to right in front of the falls and drenched myself with amazement, soaking in the essence of the power of the falls. Nothing was in my head then. I just lingered in all the glorious sprays and stared into space.
Foz do Iguaçu, BRAZIL to Puerto Iguazú, ARGENTINA - 28 october 2002
The next day, just when I thought things could not get any better, they did.
From the Brazilian side, we saw the overall view of the falls from a respectful distance but at the Argentinian side, we were walking right ON TOP of the falls, the tremendous force of water gushing down at our feet.
Maybe because of the intensity of being so close to the falls, my thoughts flitted to the small, silly, ridiculous details - the patch of grass growing at the edge of the falls, right in the path of the falls: How did it survive and grow there, being whammed and trashed by the falls everyday all the time?; The butterflies: What in the world were they THINKING??? They were fluttering so so so close to the falls when a single drop could kill them! They were dancing with death!; And these swifts building their nests beneath the falls: Hey, you crazy pájaros!! Oh well, they must be proud of their prestigious home address.
At each viewpoint, I stood mesmerized, a silly grin on my face.
At the last viewpoint, which was right in front of the top of the Garganta del Diablo (the day before, I was at the bottom bit), I was staring at a profanely copious amount of brown water crashing down, mere metres from me. I felt weak in the knees in view of such power. Tears smarted in my eyes. I am so lucky to be alive to see this, I chanted. I gagged for breath. I was choked for words.
I looked around for someone and a woman (I learnt later from Ecuador - sweet dear) next to me returned my look and we connected, we knew. I paced the platform, like a confused person, shaking my head in disbelief and then, raising my head to face the sight before me again. Yes, believe it, dear. The Iguaçu Falls had shared its magic with me. I felt like soaring in the sky like those crazy swifts below.
I returned 40 mins late to my bus and found that they had left without me. Yeah, in other words, they ditched me. The day before, some people returned 2 hours later and the rest got really mad, so I think my driver feared I was going to pull the same stunt. As I was the only one to be left on the Argentinian side as I had crossed the border (the rest returned to Brazil), I guess the driver thought all the more he could leave me here.
OK, being ditched is never a good feeling but hey, I did not care. After witnessing the last MAGIC, being ditched was NOTHING.
Of course, when my rational thoughts returned and I found I had only 4 Argentinian pesos with me, I panicked a little. I later found the bus ride to town was 2 pesos. Well, things would always work out…
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